"Twice Baked" Baby Potatoes with Caviar

Makes about 35

 *gluten, onion and garlic allergy (Ms. Parlett + guest (GF) and Ms. Spiegel (all 3))

• 1 1/2 pounds baby red potatoes (about the size of cherry tomatoes)

• Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

• 1/4 cup cream cheese, room temperature

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

• 1/4 cup whole milk

• *2 tablespoons finely chopped chives, plus more for serving (optional)

• Sour cream, for serving

• Caviar or trout roe, for serving (optional)

Preheat oven to 425°F. In a pot, cover potatoes with about 2 inches of cool water; bring to a boil. Season generously with salt and cook until potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a knife but still holding their shape, 8 to 10 minutes; drain. When cool enough to handle, trim and discard 1/4 inch from top of each potato. (If necessary, trim bottoms flat so potatoes stand upright.)

Using a small paring knife, the smaller side of a melon baller, or a demitasse spoon, carefully scoop flesh from potatoes, leaving 1/4 inch flesh intact all around bottom and sides. Transfer hollowed potatoes to parchment-lined baking sheets.

For the smoothest texture, press potato flesh through a ricer into a bowl. Stir in cream cheese, butter, milk, and chives to thoroughly combine (or, if not using a ricer, mash to combine until smooth); season with salt and pepper.

Transfer potato mixture to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip, or a resealable plastic bag with a corner snipped. Pipe mixture into hollowed potatoes and bake until they are heated through and browned in places on top, 20 to 22 minutes. Let cool a few minutes; dollop with sour cream and top with caviar, trout roe, or more chives. Serve warm.